holley sniper efi iac problemswandsworth parking permit zones

Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. TPS 0. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. It runs perfectly fine other wise. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. MSD pro billet and 6AL box I had a customer who struggled to understand that. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? I very pleased with the performance, it is a huge improvement from the 800CFM carb I had on this motor. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. It then started working normally again. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. Thanks again. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? Enjoy your Sniper! But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Give us a hand! Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. That will at least tell you something. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. My problem is low idle. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. If this is the case then I would look particularly close at the IAC hold position and IAC ramp start.Let us know what you find and what works for you! Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. Thanks for any help. Are these compatible enough? After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. If you use your handheld to go here: It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. 2. I have not heard of this. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Please help. Okay, try my method. This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. It may take a few tries. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. Chris, Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . It then idles up from 750 to 1100. I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of They tell you to ask call Holley. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. Your task will be to find that. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. MAP Sensor. Is that normal? Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to Good it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? ps. The throttle position should be zero. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. 63 bomb It is a common one. lower until I turn down the set screw. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. Sorry I didn't buy from you but I didn't know you had sold them. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. You'll be amazed at how much of this just "goes away" when you drive it enough. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. That is certainly not normal! Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Hello Chris. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Let's start by not assuming anything. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. Thank you for your input. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. It will need to see it again and again. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Thanks Again for your help. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. It's not necessary to drive it that way. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I check out the. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. have the system learn the higher speeds? If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. My Sniper is 99% great! How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. = 2.34 There is no real mystery here. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. I keep doing that with the same result. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached).

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